I’ve been playing around with computing lately, as it is a necessity and fairly entertaining. The big thing about getting high performance computing to work these days is thermal management. I’ve had lots of luck and absolutely love using LianLi cases because they are all Aluminum and have the feel of a really high end piece of craftsmanship.
My goal: Shrink down my i5-3570k rig down to a smaller case
What I’m using now: Lian Li 7-HX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112389
What I’m trying to migrate to: Lian Li PC-A55B http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112376
I reference NewEgg.com often because getting the information you need to make a purchasing decision and deciding between components is good with their site. Disclamer: Synapse does business with NewEgg.com and is somewhat “sponsored” by them.
You can see that there is a significant size difference between these two cases. It is nice that you can actually fit a full ATX Mobo in a case this size.
With the front cover pulled off you can see the fan configurations. The 7HX actually comes with a total of 3 fans whereas the A55B only comes with 2.
It is all about that AIO water loop that allows me to crank the Ghz on this setup. I just built a small stable i5-3570k for my mom using the stock Intel cooler, and it couldn’t even clock all 4 cores @ 3.8 Ghz stable. So this is critical. The 7HX has the drive bays removed in this current setup since it isn’t really needed and it helps air flow.
You can see that with the A55B, it has the 140mm fans setup in push-pull, so this is great for getting air across all of the other thermally sensitive components on the motherboard, like the VRMS, RAM, etc. It also has the PSU front mounted, which is how it is able to shrink its overal height compared to the 7HX. The PSU is setup for exhausting in the front, so it is an innovative setup. I wanted to play with this case for the sake of a liquid Nitrogen project I wanted to get up and running in the future. What is great with this, like all Lian Li cases so far is how modular everything is. The fan came out like a lego block, as did setting up the PSU without tools. One very handy feature of these Lian Li cases is the ability to easily take panels apart to ease in install and cable routing. Very nice.
One major negative consequence to having the the PSU in the location it is in is that it isn’t easy to get to the power supply switch easily. You have to pull the front cover off (super easy) and get your finger in there just to switch the PSU. Kind of a hassle, but not a big deal in permanent installs. If you’re tweaking with Overclocking and frequently changing settings, it can be a hassle.
I finally got everything together and it worked ok. Not too bad. Clocked just fine, and the thermals were there. But where the hell was I supposed to put the radiator now? The A55B is absolutely not setup to accomodate any kind of water cooling. There aren’t even any ports to run water lines out of the case. And If I keep the radiator where it is, there’s no way a grapics card will fit in there. So, for me, this was an epic fail. I still think that this is a very well designed case, for someone running on Air. So, if running on air is your goal (air heat sink fan) then this is a great case. Full ATX and full graphics cards with good airflow.
Even in this half-wit configuration with the rad just sitting around, I benched it hard with IBT and the case closed and it still performed like a champ. There are just all of the future issues to deal with that are going to limit what I’ll be able to do with this case. Ivy-Bridge 3570k not being Sandy Bridge, it requires a good thermal environment. So I’m going to put it all back in the 7HX.
Here’s the before when running on the 7HX. I’m only benching hard on Linpack at 4.6 Ghz, because frankly, 5.0 Ghz isn’t going to survive a crazy stress test like IBT at this point without the use of cryogenics.
As you can see on the A55B, not a change in temps really, nothing significant enough to warrant losing the ease of space. It would’ve been nice to have a smaller case though. I’ll give it that.
This post is going to be more about how not to ruin your dyno day and effectively flush money down the toilet if you have a 2013 Genesis Coupe.
We were performing some R&D and validation on our new 2013 Gen Coupe charge pipe kit and came across a weird scenario. The car would make 3 pulls on the dyno, and then mysteriously it would drop the boost by 10 psi and all of the next pulls wouldn’t allow more power.
Key as you look through these dyno charts
Here’s the first 3 pulls:
At this same time, the ABS light would come on. Hmmm, what’s the deal. We turned off the traction control and the stability control already, so that couldn’t possibly be the issue. However, when the car is on the dyno, the rear wheels are spinning and the front wheels are stationary. What we found is that the OEM Torque control calibrations will only let you get away with this for so long before cutting you off. At this point, this meant 3 gear pulls. It makes sense why they would build this in, but it is annoying nonetheless. This little safety feature limits the number of standing tire roasts you could do, I guess. Because even if you were doing donuts or drifting, the front wheels would still be spinning.
Here’s what the limp mode power drop looks like on the dyno:
After much frustration, we were left with two options. Dismount the car and drive it around to get all 4 wheels spinning and see if it needed to reset itself, and then mount it up again on the dyno. Which would be lots of work. Option 2 was to, reset the ECU and tinker with it some more on the dyno to see if that would fix it. Option 2 did not work.
One last thing to try . . . Cruise the car on the dyno. We put it in 5th gear and cruised it like we were on the freeway. Voila! It worked. Next pull on the dyno following the cruising was full power again.
Final pull after cruising the car and the power gain with our newly engineered charge pipe for the 2013 Gen Coupe:
So, if you’ve spent money on dyno time, and you are getting weird results, this is probably along the lines of what you’re facing. You will also see similar issues if your ABS sensors start to go out, so look out for that if you start to get ABS lights, you may just get a huge haircut in the power output department.
We had the chance to do some testing with our new 2013 genesis charge pipe with bov kit. The results were actually pretty surprising. It was a long day of dyno testing, we did three baseline pulls with the factory charge pipe and customer had an hks bov mounted on the TD04 block off plate. So, with that being said, we finished the three dyno pulls and the results were 231whp and 262wtq with stock piping setup. At this point, we shut the car off and began installing our charge pipe with our bov kit.
The car remained on our dyno pack the whole time. Installation was fairly simple to do, no need for extra tools, cutting or any other modifications. With just a simple flat head screw driver, 10mm wrench or socket and pliers to remove the factory clamp. Now, you can either access the charge pipe with or without taking the front bumper off. we recommend taking the bumper off as it makes install much faster, but not necessary. This will depend on your level of “master installer” sansei skills.
So, after we installed the kit, turned the car back on and we proceeded to do our dyno pull. Here though, we ran into our problem. Now, the car was operating normal out of boost, we made sure that both traction and stability control was off, but car would not make more than 8psi of boost. We double checked everything thinking that we had a boost leak somewhere and nothing. We tried reseting the ecu, tried scanning for codes and nothing. Car would still not make the 19psi of boost we had before. So, after a long period of tinkering with the car, we came up with a few theories of what was going on.
At this point, it wasn’t making senses to us. We decided to put it back to stock to see what was going on, maybe it just didn’t like what was changing and the ecu needed to learn the car again. After we put it back to stock, it was making the same 8-9psi of boost. At this point, we were discussing our theories of what was going on. We figured that the ecu needed some time to recover because of the new parts, but what we actually found, is that the abs is what was throwing the whole tantrum. Hyundai engineers only want you to do a few burnouts before they cut your power off because as the back tires are moving, the front tires are not and the ecu will start cutting boost to reduce the power, which makes it less likely for you to hurt your hyundai. Clever? yes, we think so.
To get around this, we decided to roll the car on the dyno for a few minutes just cruising without putting load on the car to trick the ecu and bam. It worked, we were back up to 19psi as before. We found that you can only do about 2-4 pulls before the ecu starts cutting boost again. This is a weird scenario that we have not faced before, but we were able to resolve this issue and we want to share our findings with the genesis owners.
As far as results, we were were pretty surprised that it made a good difference. We knew it was gonna help, but dyno runs showed an average of 5-10whp gain between runs over the stock charge pipe with hks bov. Same boost and same air fuel ratios as seen on the graph. Also same day, same temperature without any ecu tuning or dyno alterations. This was an automatic 2013 genesis coupe 2.0 turbo, we will be testing a manual 2013 genesis 2.0 turbo next week. Stay tuned
As you can see on the graph, the gains are real. The pink line is Boost levels. The dotted lines are the pulls with stock charge piping and hks bov. The solid lines are Synapse charge piping with synapse bov. Boost was much smoother and flatter with our kit as seen on the graph.
Pink line = Boost
Yellow line = air fuel ratio
Blue line = Power (hp)
Green line = Torque (tq)
Genesis 2013 2013 genesis coupe 2.0t genracer bov genbov bovtest synapse synapseengineering bov hks tial greddy slicks dynotesting dyno test