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Compressor Valves: BOV/DV/Radial R35/R55 (29)

Category: Blow Off Valve

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Q

Detailed 3D Models of SB BOV

A

We have made available detailed 3D models of the V3 Synchronic BOV.  With these models, you can explode the assembly to see each individual component in the BOV, how they assemble, section views, installation and assembly tips.  You will need to download two (2) important components in order to see and manipulate these models:

 

  1. The free eDrawings viewer:  eDrawings
  2. The eDrawings model:  V3 Synchronic BOV

Once you have the program and the model setup, you can see details through Markup and Explode View.

Q

Do I have to re-circulate the Synchronic BOV?

A

No. But we do recommend recirculating the discharge back after your MAF, if your vehicle has a MAF sensor.

There are two ways to discharge the air in a BOV.

1.)    Vent To Atmosphere (VTA) - Discharge the excess boost into the atmosphere.  Done on vehicles with MAP systems.  Can be done on vehicles with  MAF systems, however, is not ideal as your vehicle will not be performing optimally and can potentially stall.  We do have an Anti Stall Kit available for purchase for those of you who have MAF vehicles and still want to VTA.

2.)    Recirculate (Recirc) – Recirculation of the excess boost into the intake between the throttle body and MAF.  Ideal for MAF equipped vehicles. Can be done on MAP vehicles to give a an ultimate stealth looking system, recirculating the discharge will give you this element of surprise you seek to maintain.

Q

Do I need the 1/8th NPT Upgrade?

A

If you are looking to purchase a new Synchronic SB BOV or DV, you do not need the 1/8th NPT upgraded back cover.  All current units for sale on the market have the latest updates applied.  This upgrade is only intended for legacy users that have an older version of the SB BOV and elect to update the connections on their unit.

Q

How many O-Rings does my flange need?

A

 

16011A / SB001.1A : 1 O-ring

16012A / SB001.2A : 1 O-ring

16013A / SB001.3A : 2 O-rings

16014A / SB001.4A : 1 O-ring

16016A / SB001.6A : 1 O-ring

16017A / SB001.7A : 2 O-rings

16018A / SB001.8A : 2 O-rings (1 on black, 1 on silver)

16019A / SB001.9A : 1 O-ring

16110A / SB001.10A : 1 O-ring

16111A / SB001.11A : 1 O-ring

Q

I don't see a SB001 kit for my STI with a top mount intercooler.

A

The SB001 does not fit on the Top Mount InterCooler (TMIC). A DV kit is available for purchase. Please click on the picture below to purchase part #DV001A.004

Q

I've started to experience compressor surge, or a different sound coming from the BOV.

A

If your Synchronic BOV started sounding different all of a sudden, we recommend removing the back cap by removing the 6x hex cap screws, and inspecting the smaller diameter preload spring for any binding or breaking. The unit will function fine without this preload spring (especially if the preload adjustment screw was being run in the factory position). Try removing the smaller preload spring, and see if that fixes the issues you're having with the blow off valve. In certain cases, the preload spring may break, and bind, interfering with the normal operation of the Blow Off Valve. 

Q

Is it ok to block off Port C on the BOV if I do not use it?

A

Do not block off Port C on the BOV.  Port C feeds the chamber in the BOV that helps opening the valve.  If Port C is blocked, it will create a “shut chamber” which will in turn cause the BOV to malfunction.

Q

Is the Blow-off Valve CARB certified?

A

They are not CARB certified, all of our products are for Racing off-road use only.

Q

Troubleshooting Steps: Synchronic BOV V1

A

V1 Synchronic BOVs have a Port C

  1. Is there an o-ring between the mounting flange and the BOV body?  If using an early flange design, is an o-ring installed on the o-ring groove of the flange?
  2. Port C needs to be plumbed to a boost only source between the turbo and throttle body
    1. Port C cannot share the signal with any valve that bleeds, vents or regulates that pressure source
    2. Port C can share the signal with pressure sensors, or boost gauge, or other "dead end" components that don't modify the signal
  3. Is the valve still secure to the actuating piston?  Make sure that these two components are still fastened together.
  4. Have you plugged one of the unused ports on the back of the BOV?  Remove the plug and allow the unused port to vent to atmosphere.
  5. Is there debris in the small ports on the back of the BOV?  Check the signal line and fittings
  6. Has the pre-load spring broken?  Remove the 6 bolts from the back of the BOV and check the inside of the BOV.  You can't hurt anything by taking the BOV apart, but be careful not to lose any o-rings that are installed.
  7. When you push the valve in with your finger, does it feel sticky or resistant?  There should be no resistance, it either needs a re-lube or disassembled to verify that there are no components broken inside
  8. Is your signal line secure?  Make sure that your signal line does not have a leak.
    1. Having a solenoid, or Manual Boost Controller sharing the signal line to the back of the BOV will have it open pre-maturely at lower pressures
    2. We have had many customers over the years where their signal line was melted in a section that you can't see with the naked eye, or had cuts in the line.  Inspect the line by tracing it by hand and following the line from signal source to valve
  9. In a Port C enabled V1 valve, you can always eliminate it from the equation by removing all signal lines to Port C and A+B and leaving them to atmosphere.  This will make the valve operate as though there's nothing installed on the charge pipe

 

Q

Troubleshooting Steps: Synchronic BOV V2

A

V2 Synchronic BOVs do not have a Port C on the outside, it is internally ported

  1. Is there an o-ring between the mounting flange and the BOV body?  If using an early flange design, is an o-ring installed on the o-ring groove of the flange?
  2. Is the valve still secure to the actuating piston?  Make sure that these two components are still fastened together.  Open the back cover and make sure that the bolt is tight that fastens the valve to the piston.
  3. Have you plugged one of the unused ports on the back of the BOV?  Remove the plug and allow the unused port to vent to atmosphere.
  4. Is there debris in the ports on the back of the BOV?  Check the signal line and fittings
  5. Has the pre-load spring broken?  Remove the 6 bolts from the back of the BOV and check the inside of the BOV.  You can't hurt anything by taking the BOV apart, but be careful not to lose any o-rings that are installed.
  6. When you push the valve in with your finger, does it feel sticky or resistant?  There should be no resistance, it either needs a re-lube or disassembled to verify that there are no components broken inside
  7. Is your signal line secure?  Make sure that your signal line does not have a leak.
    1. Having a solenoid, or Manual Boost Controller sharing the signal line to the back of the BOV will have it open pre-maturely at lower pressures
    2. We have had many customers over the years where their signal line was melted in a section that you can't see with the naked eye, or had cuts in the line.  Inspect the line by tracing it by hand and following the line from signal source to valve
  8. In a V2 valve, you can always eliminate it from the equation by plumbing boost-only to the A+B vacuum ports on the BOV.  This will make the valve operate as though there's nothing installed on the charge pipe
  9. If there is any leaking or venting or pressure regulating of the boost/vacuum signal line to the back of the BOV it will allow the BOV to open while under boost.  This is sometimes desired as a safety measure to limit the maximum boost the system can produce.

 

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